June 3, 2008
I love tins featuring foreign products or neat artwork. I see so much possibility in that metal! Even those crummy cookie or popcorn-filled tins I get in the holiday season have the potential to be something great.
In this tutorial, I’ll recycle a cute little tea tin into a cover for a small handbound book. Little books like this are great for jotting notes and sketches, and they make lovely gifts.
- Scissors are handy for cutting paper and string!
- A paper awl to make holes in your book’s signatures. You can also use a nail, a large needle, or any other metal pokey thing you have laying around.
- Smooth flat-nosed pliers for bending the metal. This little pliers is designed for jewelry making. It has smooth jaws, and its small size and rubber grip make it easy to use.
- A metal ruler will be useful when bending the edges of the metal.
- Pounding device! This one is a rawhide mallet, which is good for pounding on metals when you want to avoid making big dents or marring the surface. A rubber mallet works for that purpose too. You’ll also want a plain ol’ metal hammer for when we poke holes in the cover.
- A needle for binding the book. This is an upholstery needle, and the curve makes it easier to stitch the binding. A plain straight needle will work just fine though if that’s all you’ve got.
- Thread or cord to bind your book with. This is waxed linen, which works absolutely wonderfully for a binding like this. The wax makes the cord stick a little, keeping your signatures bound tightly.
- Metal cutting device of some sort! Don’t even try to cut with scissors. They’ll be ruined. Use metal snips or shears.
- Not Pictured: You’ll also need paper of course! Choose a paper that suits the intended purpose of your book. If you want to use it as a sketchbook, be sure to choose a heavier paper that is acid-free. The paper will need to be the same height and about twice the width of the cover.
Optional: An old catalog or phone book, a paper cutter, eyelets and eyelet setting tool.
Preparation of the Metal
Before you start disassembling: WARNING – the bare metal edges are extremely sharp!! Pleeeease work carefully and deliberately to avoid accidentally cutting yourself.
Many tins use a sort of crimping/folding to hold the tin in shape. Sometimes, by merely applying pressure in the right spot, you can force it apart. Other times, you’ll need to get it started with a pliers.
Some edges will be nicely folded over, and you can leave those alone. Cut off any rough edges, and then cut your metal into the size you want for your book. For mine, I just cut the piece in half in order to preserve as much of the design as possible.
Creating the Covers
Do this part on a workbench or a surface you don’t mind pounding on. Line up your cover piece with the edge of the table, let about one-quarter inch hang over the edge and place the metal ruler on top, lined up with the table. Now, firmly holding the ruler down, you can bend up the overhanging edge with the pliers, and it will stay nice and even thanks to the ruler.
Using a paper awl or a nail, make evenly spaced holes on the cover edges that are to be bound. The number of holes is up to you and depends on the size of the book and how much stitching you want to do! I made three holes in my covers. (I didn’t put it in the photo, but I stuck an old magazine underneath the cover when I made my holes, so I didn’t go through my table!)
Now you can cut and assemble your paper into signatures. My signatures are slightly smaller than the size of the cover. My book has six signatures made of six folded-in-half sheets of paper each. Within reason, you can have as many signatures as you want. The pages per signature will have to be kept low (unless you don’t mind trimming the rough edges) as the more pages you add, the thicker the signature gets, and the pages won’t align perfectly on the open edge due to the thickness.
An old catalog, phone book, or other thick book makes a great place to rest your signatures while you punch the holes. It helps make sure they’re well aligned. So you don’t have to mark the holes each time, just steal a sheet from the first signature you punched and use that as the guide to punch holes in the other signatures.
Stitching the Book
Go up through the cover, but do not go back through the signature. Loop under the thread connecting the last signature hole and cover hole, as pictured. Then add on the next signature by going through the first hole, outside to inside.
Exit out of the last hole, loop under the connecting thread above, add on the next signature by going in through the first hole. Continue on, repeating the steps to add all the signatures. Stop when you exit the last hole of the last signature.
Exit through the middle hole, loop under the connecting thread, down through the cover, under both threads, then back through the middle hole. Repeat the process with the remaining hole, ending by going back through that hole to end on the inside of the last signature.
Ta-dah! It’s done! The tin has been transformed into a nice metal-covered book!
You can see that my holes ended up a bit misaligned, as the stitching isn’t aligned from the cover to the signatures. Technically, it should all be fairly straight and aligned. Oh well. There’s always next time. I’ve been saving tins and snatching them up from relatives’ trash bins in order to put them to good use in projects like this one! More ideas to come…